Electrics – The FatMech https://thefatmech.com Maintenance guides for cars, vans pickups and more Thu, 04 May 2023 16:11:42 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://thefatmech.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/fav-150x150.png Electrics – The FatMech https://thefatmech.com 32 32 Ford Fiesta not starting? Here’s how to fix it https://thefatmech.com/ford-fiesta-not-starting/ https://thefatmech.com/ford-fiesta-not-starting/#respond Tue, 28 Feb 2023 07:47:34 +0000 https://thefatmech.com/?p=1688 Read moreFord Fiesta not starting? Here’s how to fix it]]>

Quick answer - it’s most likely to be a flat battery. However, it could be more serious. Try the steps below and work your way through them. Be aware - not all of them may be applicable to your vehicle, so double-check.

One of the most frustrating things about owning a car - getting into the driver’s seat, cranking the engine, and then - nothing. It’s even more frustrating when you’re late for work, it’s raining, and you’ve got to get out and diagnose a car problem. Believe me - I’ve been there.

However, this is usually a simple fix, especially if your Ford Fiesta was working fine before. In this article we’re going to go through all of the reasons for your Ford Fiesta not starting and how you can fix them. 


Ignition on, clicking noise

This almost certainly suggests a flat battery. The clicking noise is actually the starter motor - there’s enough power to engage the starter motor, but not enough power to actually fire up the engine. 

You ought to try a few things when this is your issue - namely, buying a charger and allowing the battery to charge up for a few hours. This should solve your issue. If it keeps happening you need to replace the battery as it’s reached the end of it’s useful life.

If you’re sure it’s the battery and not the alternator, you could try bump starting the car - stick the car in second gear, get someone to give it a push and slowly bring the clutch up to the biting point when you get to about 10mph. The engine should start, and the alternator should start charging the battery. Be aware that you’ll need to bump start the car again if your battery won’t hold a charge, so I would suggest if you do this, your next stop should be to the motor factors to buy a new battery.


No ignition

If you’ve got no ignition at all, it’s likely your battery is completely flat. Whether this is an issue with the alternator or the battery is not clear yet, but if this is your issue you need to go and buy a jump pack or a battery charger and fully charge the battery. If your car still won’t start, the battery is likely completely dead and needs to be replaced. If you can get the car running, but after a few minutes it dies, this suggests your alternator is bad and needs replacing.


Whining noise or loud click when you turn the key

This suggests your starter motor is faulty. A whirring noise or a click can suggest that the starter is working, but not engaging properly. This could be for any number of reasons - possibly the solenoid switch is stiff or faulty, or there is a faulty electrical connection somewhere that is preventing the starter from engaging properly. 

You could try replacing the starter, but it could be an issue with the electrical supply to the starter motor. Check the battery also - check the terminals are not corroded, and check that the battery and the alternator are also functional, as this can cause issues with other electrical components in the car.


Immobiliser issue

This is in all honesty less likely to be your problem because if it was, you’d get a warning on the dash for an “immobiliser fault”. Your car is fitted with an immobiliser which prevents the engine from starting unless the correct key is used. What can happen, particularly if you’ve had to have your key replaced and then you’ve tried to use maybe the spare key, is that the immobiliser will not allow the engine to start. It will crank, but it won’t fire. In this case, you have to use the programmed key for the car in order to start it.

If you are using the right key, and your car won’t start and it’s telling you you have an immobiliser fault, it could be that the battery in your key is flat. Try replacing the key battery and starting the car again. If the car still won’t start and you get an immobiliser warning on the dashboard, it’s likely your immobiliser is faulty as it’s failing to recognise your key. You’ll need a mechanic to come out and look at the car for you in order to resolve this issue unfortunately. 


Adblue issues (diesel)

You’ll likely be aware that this is your issue, but it’s worth mentioning this as many people don’t realise what Adblue is and what it does. Adblue is an additive that’s injected into your exhaust in order to reduce the harmful gases that are expelled as a result of running the engine. Adblue is required on any Euro 6 (post 2015) diesel car. It’s not (to the best of my knowledge) fitted to any petrol cars.

The thing with Adblue is that it’s a liquid that’s held in a tank in your car, and of course, eventually that liquid will run out. Your car’s computer will actually prevent the engine from starting if you’ve run out of Adblue. Now, you do get plenty of warning that this is going to happen - you’ll start to see a series of messages along the lines of “Adblue level low, starting prevented in 200 miles” which should give you the message that you need to go and find some Adblue. However, if you’ve left it to the point where there is no Adblue in the tank and your car won’t start, you need to go and find some Adblue and put it in your car. 

If you’ve never filled up with Adblue before, it’s available from most petrol station forecourts and motor factors in large plastic bottles. Some petrol stations have it available straight from the pump. Your Adblue tank is located either beside or under the diesel fuel filler cap on your Fiesta - so it’s easy to find and easy to fill up. If you’re using a plastic bottle, it should come with a funnel attachment so you don’t spill any Adblue - but if not, use a funnel, as Adblue can stain surfaces.


Engine cranks but won’t start

This is usually one of two things - either a fuel issue or a fault with the engine itself. 

Fuel

If the engine cranks over but won’t start, it’s possible that fuel is not getting to the engine. There are a few culprits that could be causing this problem in your fuel system - but mainly you’ll be looking at the fuel injectors and the fuel pump. What I would suggest is that you turn the ignition off, and then turn it back on again. You should hear a whine coming from the rear of your car - that’s the fuel pump, priming the system with fuel and building fuel pressure so that when you turn the engine over, you have fuel at the injectors ready for the engine to fire up. If you don’t hear that whine, it’s possible the fuel pump has gone bad and will need to be replaced.

Additionally this could be a fuel injector issue - over time the fuel injector nozzles can become clogged with debris and carbon build-up, and if the holes in the injectors are clogged up it can mean that the engine doesn’t receive enough fuel in order to start. Unfortunately injectors are expensive to diagnose and replace, so if this is your problem, be prepared for a sizeable bill. The good news is that if either of these two issues is what’s causing your car not to start, they should throw up a fault code which you can read with an OBD reader. I recommend every car owner gets a cheap OBD reader for situations like this.


Engine problems

This could be a couple of things - bad spark plugs or poor compression spring to mind. If your spark plugs haven’t been replaced in a long time, you may find that they have gone bad and need to be replaced. A number of things can cause this, including carbon build-up in the engine or possibly you might have oil leaking into the engine which can prevent starting. Additionally, your issue might be one of compression - and engine with low compression won’t start easily if at all, and you might need to look at replacing the valve stem seals or piston rings to restore compression to the engine.

These are pretty extreme examples and are unlikely to be your issue, but if you’ve tried everything else, you may have to go down the route of diagnosing a potential fuel or engine problem. I would advise you get a mechanic to come out and look at your car to diagnose any further.

We've written a lot of content on the Ford Fiesta - so if you're interested in learning more or you're having other problems, check out some more of our articles below.

Ford Fiesta not starting? Here’s how to fix it

February 20, 2023

Marcus Brown

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A guide to the best oil for your Ford Fiesta
Ford Fiesta First Car – Is it a good choice?

January 10, 2023

Marcus Brown

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Ford Fiesta Tyre Pressures

January 10, 2023

Marcus Brown

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Ford Fiesta Engine Coolant Guide
Ford Fiesta Exhaust Replacement Cost
How much does it cost to replace a Ford Fiesta gearbox?

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Peugeot 208 Radio Upgrade https://thefatmech.com/peugeot-208-radio-upgrade/ https://thefatmech.com/peugeot-208-radio-upgrade/#respond Mon, 06 Feb 2023 08:41:50 +0000 https://thefatmech.com/?p=1525 Read morePeugeot 208 Radio Upgrade]]>

As the owner of a Peugeot 208 for several years, I grew frustrated with the head unit. They are known for having a number of problems with them, and so many 208 owners head to the internet to look for an alternative.

Unfortunately there’s not really much information out there about which radio upgrade you should go for - and this leads some people to contact auto electricians, who will often fit good units from the likes of Pioneer or Kenwood, but often these cost a lot of money not only for the head unit but also for the fitting, and don’t really provide any more features than the standard 208 screen other than maybe the addition of Android Auto or Apple Carplay.

In this article we’re going to do a deep dive into one of the options available for a Peugeot 208 radio upgrade, and in particular, which of the many options you should go for based on what’s available online.


Why upgrade the radio in your Peugeot 208?

Firstly let’s look at some of the reasons to upgrade the radio in your Peugeot 208. You might be on the fence as to whether you should do it or not - and it’s my opinion as Peugeot 208 owner for three years that it’s absolutely worth doing.

We’ve written a full article on this, but the stock 208 touchscreen is prone to quite a few problems - including switching itself off when it’s very hot, sometimes not turning on at all and rebooting itself constantly. Unfortunately the standard 208 SMEG units suffered from a variety of problems and if you’re experiencing issues, it may be time to replace it.

The interior of a car with a dashboard and steering wheel.


Additionally, if you’ve got an earlier, pre-facelift 208 (generally before 2015) you might be lacking certain features, such as navigation, Apple Carplay or Android Auto. This is something that a replacement head unit can provide for you, without you having to go out and buy a new car.

While there are many reasons why you would want a new head unit, from one 208 owner to another, it’s absolutely worth doing and is one of the main things you’ll want to do to your car while you own it. 


Upgrade recommendations - what to buy

I am only going to review one head unit upgrade in this article and that’s because I feel it’s by far the best one out there on the market, without comparison. That unit is the Dasaita PX6 head unit for the Peugeot 208.

We will get into the ins and outs of why I have recommended this unit to you, along with how to fit the unit, how to use it and what to expect from it, but suffice it to say that as a mechanic I have fitted a few of these to customer’s cars and there has never been anyone who has regretted it - it is a significant upgrade to what’s already in the car, and in my view, much better than anything else on the market you could buy to replace your 208 touchscreen.

Of course, if you don’t like the Dasaita and you would prefer a smaller unit (the main complaint that people have with this unit is that it’s too big) then you can go for a Pioneer or Kenwood unit either fitted by yourself or by a specialist - but just be aware it’s possible that you could lose a lot of features, including the steering wheel controls, some of the trip settings as well as other native 208 touchscreen functions - and I would expect that you’d pay a fair bit more than the Dasaita too.


The Best Peugeot 208 Radio Upgrade - Dasaita PX6

Our pick for the best Peugeot 208 radio upgrade

A car stereo with an iphone app on it.

Dasaita PX6 Peugeot 208 Android Head Unit

Our Rating:


The Dasaita PX6 is a 10.2 inch Single-DIN Android head unit designed specifically for the Peugeot 208. It’s an excellent alternative to the built-in head unit, and is a reliable piece of kit that provides a significant upgrade to your Peugeot 208.

We’re going to go in-depth on the Dasaita PX6, including the pros and cons of fitting one to your car, as well as whether you should buy one or not.


Background - who are Dasaita?

Dasaita are a Chinese company that produces and develops car AV systems. This is all they do - they don’t make stereos or speakers for anything other than personal and commercial vehicles. Dasaita has a decent reputation in the marketplace for making good products, but they don’t have the clout of a larger manufacturer like Pioneer. 

They are well known in the industry for aftermarket stereo systems at a cheaper price point than other manufacturers - but are well known for making units designed for individual cars, allowing you to keep bespoke features that existing touchscreen units might provide such as the steering wheel controls and other driving functions activated by the touchscreen.


Specifications, dimensions and features

A diagram showing the dimensions of a car stereo.

Operating System

Android 10.0

Screen

10.2 inch, 1280 x 720

DIN

Single

RAM

4GB

ROM

64GB

CPU

Rockchip PX6 64-bit Quad Core 1.6GHz + Dual Core 1.8GHz

EQ

DSP 15-band

Radio

DAB & FM

Apple CarPlay

Yes

Android Auto

Yes

Networking

4G (optional, via dongle) and Wi-Fi

Bluetooth version

5.0


Comparison to the original unit

Let’s first look at what you get over and above the original SMEG unit fitted from factory to your Peugeot 208. 

Firstly, many Peugeot 208 owners buy these units because they own cars fitted with the old SMEG 5 units which do not include Android Auto or Apple Carplay. Additionally most of these units also did not include navigation. While the navigation in these units is old, it is better than nothing (although most people would prefer to use their phones anyway.)

As such, this is probably the most cost effective way of upgrading your 208 to include modern features not only such as Android Auto and Apple CarPlay, but also the ability to play movies and TV shows, games as well as streaming music, online radio and YouTube videos. You can even chat with people via Facebook Messenger and check your email using Gmail. 

Compared with the original unit, the Dasaita is much larger - it’s 10.2 inches rather than the standard 7 inches you get with the SMEG. The resolution is also much better - the Dasaita boasts a 1280 x 720 pixel screen. 

One of the coolest things about the Dasaita is that it does everything the stock unit does, as well as a whole lot more. Here’s a list of things the Dasaita does that the standard unit does not.

  • Wifi - allowing you to search for and connect to nearby Wifi networks 
  • Supports RCA type front and reverse camera input - so if your 208 was not fitted with a reverse camera as standard this is perfect if you want to retrofit one
  • CarPlay and Android Auto - perfect for older 208s that don’t include this
  • Any Android feature you can think of - Google Play store, YouTube, etc
  • 4G internet connection

Fundamentally it provides you with a significant step up in in-car entertainment technology, and will allow you to do almost anything you could do with an Android tablet - because the Dasaita is basically an Android tablet you install into your car.


Fitting and assembly

The Dasaita unit is very, very easy to fit to your Peugeot 208. It’s simply a case of unbolting the old screen and slotting the new one in. You will need a few tools, including a trim clip remover and a screwdriver set.

Fundamentally all you need to do is remove the old fascia, unplug the old unit, install the new fascia, add in the new wiring loom, connect the new unit and bolt everything together. However, rather than describe this to you, there’s an excellent YouTube video which shows you exactly how to fit this unit to your car.


Just ensure that you check everything works as expected before screwing in the final piece of fascia plate - go through and check through the functions of the screen as well as the steering wheel keys just to make sure.


DAB Radio

One really important thing to note is that the Dasaita unit does not use the car’s own DAB antenna. It uses its own antenna which fits behind the dashboard for FM reception, which is generally OK - but for DAB reception you need to use a windscreen mount. I would even go as far as to say if DAB radio is important to you, don’t buy the Dasaita - because it’s more trouble than it’s worth to get it configured properly.

I will say however that it’s definitely possible to stream DAB radio from your phone if you have enough data - so if you’d prefer to do this, it’s one way around the problems you might have getting proper DAB reception. It’s not ideal though.


Do you lose any functionality?

One of the most common questions about the Dasaita is this - whether you lose anything from the SMEG unit. I’m happy to report that no, you don’t - although some things may not be quite what you expect.

You keep the DAB and FM radio - although as we’ve mentioned the DAB isn’t fantastic. You also keep the steering wheel controls - so you can use the volume up and down on the steering wheel as you can with the old SMEG unit, as well as the handsfree calling function. You also keep the trip computer function, although this is in litres per kilometer only and not in miles per gallon - so if this is important to you then just bear this in mind.

Additionally you keep all the settings you can think of within the SMEG unit, including the ability to edit the car’s lighting, the time and date, language, etc. 


Final opinion on the Dasaita PX6 Peugeot 208 Radio Upgrade

Good points

  • Cost-effective upgrade to the standard head unit
  • Great feature set
  • Excellent value for money

Bad points

  • DAB is not great
  • 4G is only available via dongle

A fantastic addition to your car, that will provide a significant and more reliable upgrade to your in-car entertainment experience.

By far the best place to purchase this item is on Amazon. Check out our link below where you can purchase the Dasaita PX6 for your Peugeot 208.

Where to buy the Dasaita PX6

A car stereo with an iphone app on it.

Dasaita PX6 Peugeot 208 Android Head Unit

Our Rating:


We’ve written a lot of articles on the Peugeot 208, and so if you’re experiencing other problems, check out some of the other stuff we’ve written!

Peugeot 206: A Closer Look at Reliability
Unveiling the Truth about Peugeot’s 2.0 HDi Engine Reliability
Peugeot Engines: Analyzing their Reliability
Unraveling the Reliability Factor of Peugeot 307
Peugeot 508: A Deep Dive into Reliability and Performance
Unveiling the Truth About Peugeot 308 Reliability
Exploring the Reliability of Peugeot Boxers
Are Peugeot 107 Reliable? A Comprehensive Analysis
A Comprehensive Guide to Turning Off Economy Mode in Your Peugeot 307

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Peugeot 208 Touchscreen Problems https://thefatmech.com/peugeot-208-touchscreen-problems/ https://thefatmech.com/peugeot-208-touchscreen-problems/#respond Wed, 04 Jan 2023 06:24:42 +0000 https://thefatmech.com/?p=1298 Read morePeugeot 208 Touchscreen Problems]]>

Most Peugeot 208 models from 2012 onwards were fitted with a touchscreen unit for the radio, Bluetooth connection as well as some in-car settings like the trip computer and viewing your fuel consumption. Some (but not all) were also fitted with units that had navigation and Apple CarPlay and Android Auto.

Unfortunately these screens aren’t particularly good and are prone to a few problems. There’s a lot of information on the issues with these screens out there on the internet, but having owned a Peugeot 208 for three years and having been a mechanic for ten years, I can add some value and help you out if you’re experiencing Peugeot 208 touchscreen problems.

Let’s look at some of the most common issues with the touchscreen on your Peugeot 208 and what you can do to fix them.

 

Background to these units

The touchscreen units fitted to the Peugeot 208 were named SMEG and came in several different generations. The most notable difference between the generations is between generation 5 and 6, as generation 5 was the last generation fitted to the pre-facelift model of Peugeot 208. 

This has become a point of contention in online forums for people who bought a pre-facelift model of 208, saw the screen and thought they were getting navigation and CarPlay, only to find that it isn’t possible to upgrade a SMEG5 or older unit to include these features if they weren’t fitted from the factory.

These units were also fitted to other Peugeot cars including the 508, as well as some Citroen cars such as the DS3. As mentioned they are not particularly reliable units and are prone to problems and issues, the most common of which we will run through in this article.

 

 

Blank screen when turning the car on

This is a common problem and one that I used to experience at least every few months when I owned my Peugeot 208. One thing that would always solve it is removing and reseating the fuse for the touchscreen. The touchscreen fuse is located in the glove compartment fusebox on RHD cars and to the left of the steering wheel in LHD cars. 

The fuse you need to check is numbered fuse 18, and is a 20A fuse. Visually inspect the fuse for signs of damage, and if the fuse looks damaged, replace it. If the fuse looks OK, put it back in and see if you are still experiencing the problem.

You may also find that this is because of heat. As we’ll discuss in a later section, these touchscreens are very sensitive to heat. There is a thermal cutout on these screens and if the internal temperature gets too high, they will turn themselves off. It may be the case that the screen is too hot even to switch on, so when you start the car you get a blank screen. 

The solution to this is to run the car with the air conditioning on for at least half an hour and when the internal temperature is low enough, the screen should switch itself back on.

A small orange car parked on a grassy field.

Another cause for this is a low battery - you’ll also find that other features such as the stop/start don’t work if the battery charge is too low. This is a symptom of a failing battery or alternator if this happens too often, because that indicates that the battery is not receiving enough charge or isn’t able to hold a charge above a certain level. 

As mentioned, when the battery drops below around 30% charge, it will start turning systems off, including the touchscreen. In this instance you should leave the car running to get some charge in the battery and see if the screen will come on. If not, you may need a new battery.

I have heard of people dismantling these units and reviewing how the fan connects to the board - apparently the connection is designed to be flexible as the heatsink can expand and contract with heat, but sometimes the connection is too flexible and it can cause the screen not to come on. 

Some people have managed to force the fan and heatsink assembly to make a connection with the board to force the unit to come on, but I don’t have any experience with this, and unless you’re electrically-minded, wouldn’t recommend you start dismantling your touchscreen unit in case you can’t get it back together again.

A car stereo with an apple and android app on it.

Thinking of upgrading your 208 radio?


We've written a full guide on the best unit to buy if you want to upgrade your default Peugeot 208 radio.


 

Delayed response to button pushes

This is really frustrating but it is normal. These SMEG units fitted to the Peugeot 208 are not brilliant touchscreen units (at least nowhere near as good as the newer ones fitted to Peugeot cars after 2019) and you will occasionally find that if you push a button, nothing happens for at least two or three seconds.

This is normal on a lot of cars - I recently had a Ford Mondeo (which is a cracking car, by the way) in for repair and I was playing with the touchscreen and the delay was really, really obvious. However it does seem to be worse on the Peugeot SMEG units than some other cars. 

I would say that if it seems very excessive to you (i.e. you’re waiting in excess of five seconds for something to happen after pushing a button) you ought to get the dealer to look at your car. Otherwise, it’s normal and the only solution is either to replace the head unit with an aftermarket one or swap out to a newer car.

 

Switching off in very warm weather

Again, while annoying, this is not a fault. Sometimes you will find when the cabin is very hot (above 35 degrees) the screen will flash up with a message along the lines of “Console Temperature Exceeded” and the screen will turn itself off. 

When it has cooled down enough, it will switch itself back on. You may also find that the unit doesn’t switch itself off, but instead restricts volume to either 10 or 15 (which generally is so low that you can’t hear the radio over internal fan noise.)

Sadly this is normal and can become very annoying on a hot day. The problem is that there is not much room for cooling in the head unit cavity so it is very easy when the cabin temperature is high for the unit to overheat and restrict operation or turn itself off to avoid overheating damage.

The reason the volume is restricted is because there are safety thermistors mounted to the output amplifier chip heatsink, and if this gets too hot, the temperature is restricted to prevent the amplifiers burning out due to heat. As annoying as this is, it’s a design issue with the car in that the screen is unable to cool itself properly, and there’s nothing you can really do about it other than try to keep the cabin temperature as cool as you can by running the air conditioning in the summer. 

Peugeot 208 - peugeot 208 - peugeot 208 - peugeot 208.

 

Screen reboots itself constantly

This is a really common problem on post 65-plate Peugeot 208 (facelift) models. Unfortunately as we’ve mentioned, these touchscreen units aren’t particularly good anyway but it seems as though around the time of the Mk1 facelift in 2015-2016, there was a bad software version that went out that caused this issue.

This is well documented on forums online where the touchscreen would reset itself every three minutes or so and Peugeot owners were getting no luck having the units replaced by the dealership. It seems as though around the end of 2015, however, an updated software version was released that fixed this issue.

If your touchscreen is rebooting itself it may just need a software update. Go to the Menu and press the Settings button for around five seconds and it should give you the SMEG version and the date. If it’s anything below 2016, you should get the dealer to update your head unit’s firmware and see if this fixes the issue. 

You might expect to pay an hour’s labour to have this done - around £120. The Peugeot software has been leaked online a couple of times but unless you really know what you’re doing, I’d suggest just getting the dealer to do it - there is a risk of bricking your screen and needing a new head unit if you get it wrong.

It’s worth mentioning that this will likely only work on SMEG6 units - SMEG5 units were fitted to the pre-facelift 208 (prior to Sept 2015). Following the instructions above to find the version number will tell you whether you have a SMEG5 or 6 unit.

A car stereo with an apple and android app on it.

Thinking of upgrading your 208 radio?


We've written a full guide on the best unit to buy if you want to upgrade your default Peugeot 208 radio.


We’ve written a huge amount of content about the Peugeot 208, and if you’re experiencing problems and issues with your 208 you should check out some of our other articles:

Peugeot 206: A Closer Look at Reliability
Unveiling the Truth about Peugeot’s 2.0 HDi Engine Reliability
Peugeot Engines: Analyzing their Reliability
Unraveling the Reliability Factor of Peugeot 307
Peugeot 508: A Deep Dive into Reliability and Performance
Unveiling the Truth About Peugeot 308 Reliability
Exploring the Reliability of Peugeot Boxers
Are Peugeot 107 Reliable? A Comprehensive Analysis
A Comprehensive Guide to Turning Off Economy Mode in Your Peugeot 307

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Citroen DS3 Heater Blower not Working https://thefatmech.com/citroen-ds3-heater-blower-not-working/ https://thefatmech.com/citroen-ds3-heater-blower-not-working/#respond Mon, 02 Jan 2023 08:32:04 +0000 https://thefatmech.com/?p=1285 Read moreCitroen DS3 Heater Blower not Working]]> Featured image: Jakub “Flyz1” Maciejewski, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Quick answer – it’s most likely to be a blown fuse or a burned out heater resistor pack. In rare occasions it could be that the blower motor itself has failed. It could also be a failed relay but this is very rare.

Problems with the heater fan are common in every car. Of course, in the middle of winter, this can be quite an urgent issue and one that can usually be resolved fairly quickly and cheaply. In this article I’ve run through some of the most common causes of failure for your Citroen DS3 heater blower, as well as how to fix these issues and how much you’ll pay.

99% of heater related issues in the DS3 are caused by the heater resistor pack failing or the fuse blowing. It is rare, in my experience, for anything else to be the cause. Fortunately these are two of the cheapest and easiest repairs you can do on your own car. However, if it transpires that your issue is more complicated, this then becomes an issue that most people can’t solve at home on their driveway with common tools, and you’ll likely need to consult with a garage.

I’m not an auto electrician – I am a mechanic, and for complicated electrical faults, I would usually refer customers to a good auto electrician I knew. That being said, little issues like this are easy to do and I would usually tell a customer they could pretty easily do these repairs themselves and avoid a £60 per hour labour charge. In the instance a customer didn’t want to do that, however, I would carry out the repair. I’ve fixed several DS3 heater blower not working issues and below are some of the most common reasons why this happens, and how you can fix it yourself.

Table of Contents

Possible causes

Fuse blown

The first thing to check whether the fuse for the blower has gone. This could happen for any number of reasons but the root cause of a fuse blowing is that the component has drawn a stronger current than it is designed to handle, and the fuse blowing is designed as a failsafe so that the wiring doesn’t overheat or melt.

The relevant fuse for the DS3 is fuse 11. There are two fuseboxes in the DS3 – one in the cabin and one in the engine bay located near the battery. The fuse for the blower motor is in the engine bay fusebox.

You can find a fusebox diagram either in a Haynes manual or online. I will link to one at the end of this section. but the fuses are identified by their amperage as well as their identifying numbers. The amperage is written on the fuse itself and the identifying number is written on the plastic. Fuse 11 is a 40A fuse and it is located in the bottom left of the fusebox.

Sometimes these fuses can fail without any visual signs, so I would first recommend that you replace this fuse irrespective of whether it looks good or not. These fuses can be had very cheaply at places like Halfords and Screwfix, so I would recommend just replacing it and seeing if it solves your problem. If it doesn’t, move on to the next step.

Something that’s very important to mention is that you should never renew a fuse more than once. What I mean by this is that if replacing fuse 11 fixes your problem, and then immediately after turning the heater on, the fuse blows again, do not replace the fuse a second time. This is likely now due to a short to earth due to faulty wiring and you should take your car to an auto electrician to get it fixed.

Citroen DS3 fusebox diagram: https://car-box.info/fuses-citroen-ds3-s-2009-2020.htm

(when I next see a DS3 in for repair I will grab a photo of the fusebox and update it here.)

Heater resistor pack

If ever I’ve looked at a DS3 with heater issues this is the first thing I look at. As I mentioned, I’m no auto electrician, but I will take a look at basic electrics issues such as this. Commonly the complaint is that the heater or the air con is either all or nothing – it works on full but not on anything else. This is almost certainly as a result of the heater resistor pack failing.

The heater resistor, or blower control module, works by varying the amount of electrical current provided to the fan motor. So, if you set your heater on low, the resistor adds resistance to the circuit to prevent the fan spinning too fast. If you turn the heater up to full, there’s nothing to stop the full electrical current going to the blower motor so it spins as fast as it can. As a result, when the resistor pack fails, your heating or air con won’t work on anything other than full speed.

The heater resistor pack is located in the passenger footwell, and replacement involves removing trim and removing the pack itself from around where the glovebox is. There are videos on YouTube on how to do this but fundamentally it’s a pretty easy job and heater resistor packs can be had on eBay or Amazon for not very much money – less than £20. You can, if you want, order the genuine part from Citroen – the part number is 932PC0570 and it will likely cost you around £60.

I would always say go for the genuine part – some of the heater blower control models you can get on eBay are not very good quality and it’s possible you may get a dud – so even if you’ve tried replacing the heater blower module with a new one, it could still be your issue. At least with a genuine part you won’t have this worry.

Faulty blower motor

This is not a majorly common issue in the DS3, but is something you should check if none of the other fixes have worked. Early signs of blower motor failure include slow starting or squeaking during operation. Often, failure of the blower motor is because of a blocked pollen filter. 

Unfortunately some garages don’t change this during a major service and it’s not uncommon for it to become blocked up. The blower motor uses air from outside brought in and filtered by the pollen filter, and if this is blocked, it can restrict the amount of air the fan gets, forcing it to work harder and then ultimately failing.

This is quite an involved job to do and I wouldn’t recommend you try it if you’re not at least a little familiar with the internals of a car’s heater matrix. You will need to remove a some of the interior trim in the passenger footwell to get to the heater blower motor, and some of the ducting will also need to be removed to provide enough access for you to remove and replace the motor.

I would strongly recommend buying a genuine part if you’re going to do this, and not an eBay knock-off – because if you get a dud, it’s a lot of work to do this job again. Reputable parts can be had from your motor factors for around £30 – £50 – just make sure that you buy the right part for your vehicle.

Failed relay

I will touch on this briefly as it could be the cause of your issue, but you’re unlikely to be able to do anything about it yourself, unless you’re a skilled auto electrician. It’s entirely possible that the relay for the heater blower circuit has failed. The relays on the DS3 are actually internal to the engine bay fusebox, and the parts are not user serviceable. If the relay has failed, you would need to fit a new fusebox – so it would be my advice that you check all the other issues first, before going down the route of a failed relay.

Relays don’t fail very often, however – and despite the poor reputation French cars have for electrics, it’s unlikely this is your issue. I would recommend if none of the above have worked, drop your car into an auto electrician and explain that you’ve tried a number of other things that have not solved the problem.

We’ve written a number of articles on the DS3, including a lot of content on common problems and issues you might face. If you’re interested, check out some of our other articles on the DS3 below.

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VW Golf Alternator Replacement Cost (UK) https://thefatmech.com/vw-golf-alternator-replacement-cost/ https://thefatmech.com/vw-golf-alternator-replacement-cost/#respond Sat, 19 Nov 2022 00:02:33 +0000 https://thefatmech.com/?p=768 Read moreVW Golf Alternator Replacement Cost (UK)]]> Quick answer – between £269.99 + VAT and £424.99 + VAT, depending on whether you get a new or reconditioned alternator. We would always recommend paying the extra for a new alternator.

The alternator is a pivotal component of your Volkswagen Golf – without it, your battery won’t be recharged while your engine is running and eventually you’ll turn your car off and it won’t start up again. While VW Golfs are generally well built cars, and their alternators aren’t known as a particular weak spot, but like any other component on your car, it can fail. 

In this article we’re going to go through what you might expect to pay to replace an alternator in your Volkswagen Golf in the UK at a local independent garage. This article generally covers VW Golfs from 2011 onwards, but it should be a relatively similar cost to have an older model replaced. However if your Golf is very old, you might not have a choice between a rebuilt or a new alternator and may be forced to go down the reconditioned route, which we discuss later in the article.

Table of Contents

Check that it’s definitely a problem with your alternator

Firstly, before you start asking a garage to replace your alternator, there’s a simple test you can do to test whether it is actually your alternator that’s going bad. Symptoms of a bad battery and a bad battery are often very similar, and the last thing you want to do is have a good alternator replaced when it’s actually the battery that’s failed. This test will work no matter how old your Golf is or whether it’s petrol or diesel.

Testing for a bad alternator on your VW Golf

  1. Start the car. If you need to jump start it because you believe the alternator has failed, that’s fine – it won’t affect the results of this test.
  2. With the car running, switch off the radio, AC, etc.
  3. Now, disconnect the positive terminal on your battery.
  4. If the car stops running, you have a bad alternator. If the car continues to run, your battery is bad. It’s that simple!
  5. If you want to be absolutely sure, hook the positive terminal back up and grab a multimeter. Connect the black cable of the multimeter to the negative terminal and the red cable to the positive terminal. You should measure around 14 volts – a little below or above is normal. Now, turn on the AC, the lights, radio, etc. The voltage should remain at 14 volts. If it drops below 13.5 volts, your alternator is providing reduced electricity supply. If it goes any lower than 12 volts, your alternator has completely stopped working. 

It’s important to note that you should never drive too far with a bad alternator – because if your alternator isn’t providing enough electricity to recharge the battery, your battery will eventually run flat. If it does, your engine will stop – and you certainly don’t want this happening on the motorway at 70mph. Only drive your car short distances if you absolutely have to – ideally to a garage to get the alternator replaced.

A silver volkswagen golf parked in a parking lot.
© M 93 / Wikimedia Commons

Other things that point towards a faulty alternator are the battery light on the dashboard, an engine that’s slow to turn over but does eventually start or a clicking noise when you try to start the car. All of these are also symptoms of a faulty battery too, so you really should perform the checks detailed above to be sure that it’s your alternator that’s failing and not the battery. 

Choosing between a remanufactured/rebuilt or new alternator

Alternators are one of the few automotive components that can be reconditioned and reused. Many parts cannot – such as tyres, suspension components, etc. However, you should be careful when choosing whether to go with a reconditioned or new alternator as there are pros and cons for each.

Firstly, and most importantly, a rebuilt alternator will cost less – up to 25% to 50% off the cost of a new one from your local motor factors or from the VW dealer themselves. You should also look for a warranty – generally a rebuilt alternator will either just have had the broken parts replaced, but a remanufactured alternator will have been inspected and tested and generally will have a longer warranty.

Typically most garages would recommend fitting a new alternator – primarily due to the fact that it will have a manufacturer’s warranty, and it’s less likely to go wrong. This is certainly what we would recommend as it’s the option more likely to keep you on the road for longer. Unless you’ve got a specific reason to use a rebuilt alternator – for example, your Golf is so old that you are struggling to get new parts, you should stick with a new alternator. 

One thing to mention – don’t go for a used alternator from a breakers’ yard or something because you’ll have no idea how many miles were on the car that it was taken from, and no idea when it’s likely to fail. If you’re paying someone else to do the labour, it’s a real false economy to get a used part and pay someone the labour to fit it when it could fail imminently and you have no warranty.

Cost to replace a VW Golf alternator in the UK

In this section we do a deep dive on exactly what it costs to replace the alternator on your VW Golf. As mentioned this applies to 2011 models and newer. We’ve estimated an average of £50 + VAT for labour – and we’re assuming a competent mechanic can have the alternator replaced in no more than two hours. We haven’t included diagnostic charges in this – so if you take your car to the garage and ask them to determine whether the alternator is actually bad or not, they’ll charge you probably around an hour’s labour on top of this to do this check.

Example vehicle: 2015 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 TDi GTD 

Cost to purchase a new Bosch alternator (Euro Car Parts): £324.99

Cost to purchase a reconditioned alternator (eBay): £169.99

Labour to fit: £100 + VAT

Total cost to replace the alternator on a VW Golf = between £269.99 + VAT (reconditioned alternator) and £424.99 + VAT (new alternator)

Is it worth replacing an alternator?

So generally, yes – if your alternator is bad it’s worth replacing. It isn’t a hugely expensive part, and it isn’t a lot of labour to remove the old alternator and fit the new one. However, if there’s something else wrong with your car that might be causing the alternator to fail – maybe a coolant or an oil leak that’s dripping onto the alternator and causing it to fail, or possibly one of the plugs partially shorting the alternator and toasting it or something like this, you should get this looked at at the same time as your alternator repair.

A close up of a car's alternator.

Is replacing an alternator easy?

Replacing an alternator on a VW Golf is not a difficult job for a mechanic and is definitely within the ability of a competent home mechanic. A very quick description of how to perform the repair on a 2011 or newer VW Golf is below:

  1. Disconnect the battery.
  2. Remove the engine cover.
  3. Slacken the wheel bolts on the front offside wheel. 
  4. Jack the car up and remove the wheel. Remove the bottom half of the front offside wheel arch liner to expose the crankshaft pulley.
  5. You will need to move the fuel filter assembly out of the way. Do not disconnect any hoses – unbolt the fuel filter assembly and position it somewhere where there is no strain on any of the hoses and it is not in any danger of falling into the area in which you are working.
  6. Rotate the tensioner clockwise using a spanner and insert a drill bit to lock the tension off the alternator belt. If you are reusing the belt, mark the direction in which it rotates with tipp-ex or a permanent marker. Slip the belt off the pulleys and store it safely.
  7. Unplug the cable from the alternator and unscrew the two bolts holding the alternator in place. Give them a gentle tap to release the centering nuts.
  8. Disconnect the battery positive cable from the alternator terminal. Remove the alternator.
  9. To install the new alternator, follow the steps above in reverse. For fitting the alternator belt, ensure it will rotate in the direction you marked in step 6. Once you’ve slipped the belt onto the pulleys, release the tensioner with a spanner and take the drill bit out.

Can I drive with a faulty alternator?

Technically yes, but you can’t drive very far. If your alternator isn’t providing any charge to the battery, the battery is the only thing powering the electrics in your car. When your battery runs flat, the car’s engine will stop – which is dangerous if you are on a fast moving road as the steering lock will come on and you will be left without assisted braking. You should only be driving to the nearest garage if your alternator is faulty.

Check out our troubleshooting guide if you’ve recently had a new alternator fitted, but your lights are flickering.

Check out some more of our electrical articles!

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VW Polo: Common Windscreen Wiper Problems https://thefatmech.com/vw-polo-common-windscreen-wiper-problems/ https://thefatmech.com/vw-polo-common-windscreen-wiper-problems/#respond Fri, 30 Sep 2022 02:19:19 +0000 https://thefatmech.com/?p=566 Read moreVW Polo: Common Windscreen Wiper Problems]]>

*Note – this article may contain affiliate links. For more information, please click here.

The Volkswagen Polo is an extremely popular B-segment (supermini) car that has been produced in various iterations since 1975. Models manufactured after around 2004 are most commonly on the road now, and like any other car, the VW Polo experiences its fair share of problems and issues.

One of those (although no more so than any other car) is related to the windscreen wipers.

Like anything electrically powered on a car, windscreen wipers can break. If you’re experiencing issues on your VW Polo with turning the wipers off, changing their speed, or wipers not turning themselves off, read on as this article may be able to address your problem and save you a fortune at a garage!

Damaged wiper relay

One of the first things to look for is whether your wiper relay is bad. There are a number of symptoms that point to a bad wiper relay in the VW Polo, and primarily what you’ll find is that either the wiper blades only have one speed, the blades don’t turn on at all, or they operate at a different speed from what you selected (e.g. if you select intermittent and you have full speed.) 

The wiper relay sends electrical signals to the module that controls the wiper motor and all the gearing inside.

If your relay is bad, then the wiper motor will only run at the speed of the last signal it was sent – so it doesn’t matter what setting you choose, the wipers only run at the speed they were running at when the relay last sent a correct signal.

What you may also notice is a mechanical whining noise when the wipers do run, because the wiper motor isn’t getting the power it needs to run properly because the relay is bad. In this situation you will need to replace the relay to prevent further damage from occurring.

Also be aware that a failing relay may leave you with the inability to turn the wipers on at some point – and this is obviously a dangerous situation to be driving in, so if you are experiencing any of the above issues, get your car looked at by a garage.

Ford Fiesta Tyre Pressures

The FatMech's Recommended Garage

We recommend ProTyre for all your servicing and repair needs. Over 160 locations nationwide, and 8 out of 10 customers would recommend to a friend.

Blown fuse

A blown fuse is generally caused by one of two things – either the wiper motor has been overloaded and it’s blown the fuse, or you have a more serious electrical problem in your car.

In terms of the former point, it’s possible if ice or snow build up on the windscreen and you don’t clear it before you turn the wipers on, this can cause the fuse to become overloaded and blow.

Checking the wiper fuse on the VW Polo is easy – simply go to your owners manual where you will have a diagram of the fuses for your generation of Polo and check to see if this fuse has blown – either with a multimeter, or by replacing the fuse with one you know is good.

If your wipers start to work again, the fuse was the problem. However, you’ll want to look at what caused this – as mentioned, if you keep blowing fuses, this points to an electrical issue with the car and one that you’ll need to have diagnosed by an auto electrician.

Bonnet not closed properly

This may seem like an odd one, but it is worth considering as a minor point due to the fact that you could spend a lot of money at a garage diagnosing this issue when it turns out that the issue is in fact, something very small.

Often on the VW Polo, if the bonnet is not closed, the wipers will not work. You should be aware if your bonnet is actually open and hasn’t been closed properly – but actually this could be a faulty sensor, where the car thinks the bonnet isn’t closed when it actually is, and is preventing the wiper from running.

Failed wiper motor

Despite some of the slightly more complicated potential sources of windscreen wiper problems, you may just have a failing or failed windscreen wiper motor. The symptoms for this are very similar to those for the failing or failed wiper relay, in that you may find that the wipers only have one speed.

You may also notice that the wipers don’t reset to the proper position – when you park the car and remove the key out of the ignition, the wipers return to the default position at the bottom of the windscreen. If they don’t do this, you may be experiencing a failing wiper motor. 

Additionally if your wipers don’t move at all on your VW Polo this points to a possible failed wiper motor – of course this can be other things as well such as a blown fuse – although if you are blowing fuses this does point to a more serious electrical issue.

You may also find that your wipers move slower than normal – this could indicate that the mechanical components of the wiper motor have become clogged or blocked with road grime or debris. You may also have experienced water ingress into the motor itself which can cause the motor to fail.

If you suspect your issue is that the wiper motor has failed or is about to fail, get your car looked at as soon as you can – a car is not safe to drive without functioning windscreen wipers, even if it’s not raining – all you need is a splash of mud or something to obscure your vision and this can cause an accident. 

Defective control stalk

This is another issue that can cause problems with the windscreen wipers not working – and again, the symptoms are similar to a bad wiper motor or bad wiper relay.

If your control stalk is not sending the correct signals to the wiper motor, even if the wiper motor is good, you will experience problems ranging from the wipers working only intermittently when you’ve selected constant, the wipers not working at all or not being able to turn the wipers off.

A close up of a car windshield wiper.

If you’re experiencing any of these issues and you’re not comfortable investigating these on your Polo yourself (which is understandable given that auto electrical work can be very complicated) get your car looked at by our recommended garage immediately – as mentioned it’s not safe to drive a car with defective windscreen wipers.

Ford Fiesta Tyre Pressures

The FatMech's Recommended Garage

We recommend ProTyre for all your servicing and repair needs. Over 160 locations nationwide, and 8 out of 10 customers would recommend to a friend.

Check out some of our other electrical related articles!

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Vauxhall/Opel Meriva – Code 82

ABS And Brake Light On But No Codes?

Ford F150 Interior Lights Won’t Turn On?

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Vauxhall/Opel Meriva – Code 82 https://thefatmech.com/vauxhall-meriva-code-82/ https://thefatmech.com/vauxhall-meriva-code-82/#respond Sun, 25 Sep 2022 15:07:47 +0000 https://thefatmech.com/?p=560 Read moreVauxhall/Opel Meriva – Code 82]]> The Opel/Vauxhall Meriva is a small MPV manufactured between 2003 and 2017. There are two generations of Meriva, from 2003 to 2010 and from 2010 – 2017.  One of the things you may notice coming up on your Vauxhall Meriva at least once per year is a picture of a yellow car with a spanner sign inside. The code for this is error code 82 and this is what you might get if you did an OBD read on the car.

All this means is that it’s time to service the car, and it’s reminding you that it wants an engine oil and filter change. This means it’s either been a year since you last had your car serviced, or that you’ve done around 20,000 miles and the car is reminding you that it’s time to change the oil soon.

However, you might be wondering how to reset the service indicator after changing the oil, and in this article we’re going to show you how to do just that.

Resetting the Vauxhall Meriva service light

Vauxhall Meriva A (first generation)

A silver car parked on a cobblestone street.
Rudolf Stricker, CC BY-SA 3.0 http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/, via Wikimedia Commons

For this generation, resetting the service light is easy. Simply follow the steps below:

  1. Switch off the engine.
  2. Hold the TRIP button on the dashboard.
  3. Turn the ignition on – but don’t start the engine.
  4. Keep the TRIP button held and it will start to flash. It will reset and show you how long you have until you have to reset the light again.

Vauxhall Meriva B (second generation)

A grey car parked in a parking lot.
M 93, Attribution, via Wikimedia Commons

If you have the advanced display model, you’ll need to use the indicator (turn signal) stalk to reset the oil light. If you don’t, you’ll need to use a combination of the brake and the TRIP button.

Advanced display:

  1. Switch off the engine.
  2. Turn the ignition on.
  3. Go to the “oil life” section of your screen. You will need to press the menu button on the indicator stalk. You’ll see then a picture of an oil pan, with a marker telling you how much life is left in your oil.
  4. To clear this, press the clear button (on the end of the stalk.) You’ll hear a beep and the oil life will go to 100%.

Basic display:

  1. Switch off the engine.
  2. Turn the ignition on.
  3. Press the TRIP button until you see a % oil life figure.
  4. Put your foot on the brake and hold it.
  5. Press and hold the TRIP button again and wait until you hear a beep. The oil life will reset to 100%.

What does the spanner light mean on a Vauxhall Meriva?

The spanner light is exactly the same as a Code 82, and it means your engine needs a service. Don’t just reset the light – if you’re taking your car to a garage they should reset the service indicator for you, but if you’ve serviced your car yourself, you should follow the procedure above to reset the service indicator.

How do you reset the engine management light?

There are a few methods to do this – although in all honesty if you have an engine management light on you shouldn’t be trying to reset it, you should be taking it to a garage to be inspected.

Firstly you can try to do a code clear with an OBD reader. This will usually make any lights on the dash go out unless the issue is a recurring one, in which case the engine management light will come straight back.

If this doesn’t work, one thing you can do is try to find out the fault codes, as this will allow you to remove them with a proper diagnostic machine.

  1. Press the brake and accelerator all the way down.
  2. Turn the ignition on but not the engine.
  3. The engine light on the dashboard should now start to flash.
  4. There will be a sequence of numbers flashing. Pauses between numbers will be small, and pauses between codes will be longer. The number of flashes needs to be counted and therefore you can determine the fault code.

Once you have the fault code you can try to clear it with a proper diagnostic machine. If this doesn’t work you’ll need to get the car looked at either by Vauxhall themselves, or by a local independent garage that you trust.

Also Read: Understanding Code 82 in Vauxhall Mokka: A Comprehensive Guide

Will a spanner light fail an MOT on a Vauxhall Meriva?

As long as it’s just a reminder light, such as the Meriva Code 82 we’ve already discussed, this should not fail an MOT – all it’s doing is reminding you to get the car serviced. Whether you’ve had your car serviced recently isn’t something that’s checked with an MOT.

However, if you’ve got other warning lights such as an engine management light, it’s possible that this will cause your vehicle to fail. If you have an EML on, get your car looked at ASAP.

Can I drive my Vauxhall Meriva with the service light on?

Of course you can – as above, the Code 82 spanner light is only a reminder that you need to service the car, and no adverse effects will happen if you continue to drive the car. Be aware that if you don’t service the car as per the manufacturer’s recommendations, you can cause premature engine wear and decreased engine performance. When you car tells you it needs a service, get it serviced.

What oil does the Vauxhall Meriva take?

Generally a 5W-30 grade oil will be appropriate across the range of Meriva A and B variants. Be aware that you should double-check this with the retailer before purchasing the oil you think you need – most motor factors and oil retailers will have registration checks that you can perform to ensure that you are buying the correct oil for your car.

Check out some of our other engine related articles!

Also Read: Vauxhall/Opel Astra Code 82 – How to fix it

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ABS And Brake Light On But No Codes? https://thefatmech.com/abs-and-brake-light-on-but-no-codes/ https://thefatmech.com/abs-and-brake-light-on-but-no-codes/#respond Sat, 06 Aug 2022 07:10:10 +0000 https://thefatmech.com/?p=410 Read moreABS And Brake Light On But No Codes?]]> Every day we see a lot of customers with ABS and brake light on but no codes on their vehicles. Some of them are simple fixes, but unfortunately, some customers have no idea what to do with that matter. 

Don’t worry there are easy troubleshooting steps you can take. In this post, we’ll show you how to diagnose your ABS and Brake light issues and get rid of the problem for good!  

Is it Safe To Drive With ABS And Brake Light On?

Both the brake light and the ABS light will turn on your vehicle’s dashboard if there is a problem with the anti-lock braking system. 

So, is it risky to drive with the anti-lock braking system (ABS) and the brake light activated? 

Driving with both the anti-lock braking system (ABS) and the brake light on is dangerous because you will not have the added safety that the ABS offers. 

Also read: Why Ford F150 Interior Lights Won’t Turn On?

If you have to make an emergency stop, your stopping distance will be longer than usual, your wheels will lock up, and you won’t have any control over the steering of the vehicle while you are braking. 

Why Do ABS And Brake Lights Come On At The Same Time?

Two distinct lights have two distinct meanings.

The BRAKE indicator has always signaled that the brakes are malfunctioning. 

This warning light typically comes on when your brake fluid is low or when your parking brake is activated. 

However, on some vehicles, it can immediately light up to warn of an issue elsewhere in the system if there is an ABS fault.

The ABS light is not like the BRAKE light since it is normally managed by a computer component. 

This warning light indicates that there is a problem with the anti-lock braking system, and it is usually accompanied by error codes that may be read by the owner or a technician to determine where the problem lies.

The switches on each lamp are activated by separate switches. Both groups share some of these characteristics, while others have their own. 

Let’s examine the reason behind each lamp’s lighting. 

ABS LIGHT

  • Broken wire in the wheel’s speed sensor. 
  • Poor battery voltage. 
  • Defective anti-lock brake system module. 
  • Damaged wheel bearing. 

BRAKE LIGHT

  • The brake pads are low
  • Disengaged brakes for parking. 
  • The brake fluid level is dangerously low.

Warning lights for the anti-lock braking system (ABS) and the brake system (Brake) both coming on at the same time indicate a critical malfunction with the vehicle’s braking system, making it unsafe to proceed with driving. 

How To Fix it

Here’s how to fix both of these:

ABS Light

If your vehicle’s ABS warning light comes on, it’s because there’s an issue with the brakes.

If the ABS warning indicator comes on, it will remain on. No matter how one interprets the reading. Resetting the anti-lock brake system can help. 

To explain how:  

  1. Turn the key but DO NOT start the engine.  
  1. Simply flip it to the “on” position, and your car’s dashboard lights will begin to light.
  1. Press the gas pedal down three times rapidly. Please check your dashboard in a moment.
  1. Start the vehicle and double-check the dashboard.

Also read: Can You Change Oil Filter Without Changing Oil?

The procedure of resetting is finished at this moment. This should force your ABS to reset, which should allow all of the settings to align and start functioning normally. 

If the ABS warning light remains illuminated after attempting to reset it, something is amiss with the system. 

Brake Light

On the other side, here are some potential solutions to the problem with your BRAKE LIGHT being on: 

  • Make sure you have enough brake fluid. 
  • Release the parking brake. 
  • Keep your brake sockets clean.
  • Put in new light bulbs.
  • Take out the blown fuses and replace them. 
  • Verify that the brake light switch is not broken.
  • Take out the car’s battery.
  • Ensure that the brake pedal is properly pressing the switch. 

However, if you are aware of the potential causes for why your brake light remains illuminated, it will be easy to isolate the source and troubleshoot accordingly.

Conclusion

The most sensible course of action is to have a professional mechanic inspect the brakes.

If the ABS and Brake Lights come on together in your vehicle, you need to get it checked out by a qualified mechanic as soon as possible.

Regular maintenance can help you prevent having to pay for more expensive repairs in the future. 

Check out some more of our electrical related articles!

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Ford F150 Interior Lights Won’t Turn On? https://thefatmech.com/ford-f150-interior-lights-wont-turn-on/ https://thefatmech.com/ford-f150-interior-lights-wont-turn-on/#respond Sat, 06 Aug 2022 06:59:08 +0000 https://thefatmech.com/?p=403 Read moreFord F150 Interior Lights Won’t Turn On?]]> If your Ford F150 interior lights won’t turn on, there could be multiple problems that are might be causing this issue. 

Taking your truck into the shop for repairs is a solution, but doing so is usually time-consuming and expensive.

This post will provide you with some possible explanations as to why your interior lights will not turn on, as well as guidelines on how to resolve the issue along with some FAQs.

Lets get started!

Why F150 Interior Lights Won’t Turn On

If your F150 interior lights won’t turn on, here are some of the most common reasons why.

Also Read: New Alternator But Lights Still Flicker

Blown Fuse

If you have a blown fuse, it’s likely because your fuse box is old or not properly grounded

You’ll need to replace yours before you can get any other repairs done on your truck. 

Less Power

The interior lights aren’t getting power from the batteries. 

This can happen if you’re using an aftermarket bulb inside of your vehicle that doesn’t have enough power for its internal circuitry, causing them to burn out after a few uses or months of use.  

Damaged Fuse Box

The fuse box has been damaged by water leaking into it or debris getting stuck in it. 

If this is the case, then it could be that one of the fuses has become wet and corroded, which will cause it to blow after being triggered by an electrical circuit that needed to be powered up due to another circuit needing power (such as turning on an interior light).

Wiring Problem

If all else fails and your F150 interior lights won’t turn on, there could be a wiring problem inside your vehicle. 

In this situation, hire an experienced mechanic who can diagnose the issue and fix any wiring issues. 

How To Fix Interior Lights in F150

The control button for the doors is located on the same console as the button that turns both devices on (manual page 135). 

The light comes on even when it’s turned off.

If you push the individual lights on the center console and they do not come on when you do so, there is a problem with the vehicle that needs to be taken to the dealer.

Having said that, lets check out one more thing:

You can adjust the level of the interior ambient lighting by pressing the ambient light button, which is located on the left side of the steering wheel (for more information, see page 136 of the manual).

First, you should try increasing the amount of light, and you should also check to make sure that the lighting was NOT initially set to its lowest setting

If that too doesn’t work, we’d suggest taking it to the dealer.

Also Read: Why are there bubbles on oil dipstick?

Where Are The Fuses On A Ford F-150?

To the left of the steering wheel, near the brake pedal, you’ll find the fuse panel. The relays, spare fuses, and the fuse box will be home accessible once the panel has been removed.

What Fuse Controls Trailer Lights On Ford F150?

The panel of fuses that controls your Ford F-150’s trailer lights can be found in the passenger compartment. The trailer brake control is controlled by the fuse that can be found in location 4.

Check out some more of our electrical related articles!

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New Alternator But Lights Still Flicker? Here’s Why https://thefatmech.com/new-alternator-but-lights-still-flicker/ https://thefatmech.com/new-alternator-but-lights-still-flicker/#comments Tue, 31 May 2022 12:51:56 +0000 https://thefatmech.com/?p=14 Read moreNew Alternator But Lights Still Flicker? Here’s Why]]> You hear a squeal, then a horrible groan. You drive up to your car, and you see blinking lights that are not your turn signals. There’s no doubt that your alternator is gone. But wait, this is the third time this month! What’s going on? Why aren’t the lights going out? 

In this blog post, we’ll give you a few possible reasons why you are experiencing new alternator but lights still flicker, as well as their respective solutions.

Lets get started!

Table of Contents

Can An Alternator Make Your Lights Flicker?

The alternator is an essential part of your vehicle’s electrical system that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy. The alternator uses a spinning rotor called an armature to generate electrical current, which then charges the battery and supplies power to other components in your vehicle.

It’s possible for a bad alternator to cause flickering lights because it doesn’t produce enough power for all of your vehicle’s devices at once. When you turn on accessories like headlights or windshield wipers while driving at night, they may dim or flicker as they drain more power than the alternator can produce at one time.

What Causes Flickering Lights?

Here are some of the reason why even with a new alternator why lights would flicker:

Blown Fuses

This is the most common reason for flickering lights in cars. If a fuse blows, it’s usually because something is drawing too much electricity through it. The easiest way to check this is to check all of your fuses with an electrical tester (available at any auto parts store). If you find one that’s blown out, replace it with a new one of the same amperage rating (printed on the fuse).

Dying Battery

If your battery is old and dying, it may not have enough power to keep the lights on at all times. This can cause flickering as well as dimming of your headlights when you turn on your high beams or when you’re driving over rough terrain or at high speeds.

Loose Connections

Loose connections may cause flickering lights if they’re not making contact with their intended parts or if there’s corrosion present around those connections. A visual inspection will help determine whether there are any loose connections in your vehicle’s electrical system that need attention.

Failing Alternator

If your alternator has gone bad, it won’t be able to produce enough power to run everything properly, which means your headlights might flicker on and off as well as other electrical components that require constant power such as windshield wipers and turn signals.

Faulty Wiring Harnesses or Connectors

If your headlights are flickering when you hit the brakes or turn on your high beams, the problem may be with your wiring harness or connectors. 

Worn out wires can cause excessive resistance which can cause flickering lights and other electrical problems like dimming headlights or an intermittent electrical connection between two parts of the car’s electrical system. 

How To Fix Headlight Flickering

Here’s how to fix flickering lights:

Check the Bulbs

The first thing that you should do is check the bulb. If you have noticed that your headlight bulbs are not working as well as they used to, then it could be because one of them has burnt out. In this case, it is best to replace both bulbs at once so that you don’t experience any further problems later down the line.

Check All Connections

If replacing the bulb doesn’t work or if you have replaced both bulbs and still experience flickering headlights, then you should check all connections in your car’s electrical system for any loose fittings or frayed wires. You may also want to replace any old cables or fuses with new ones if necessary.

Check the Alternator

To check if this is what causes your problem, remove it from its place and inspect it carefully for any signs of damage or corrosion on its surface. If there are any signs of damage on its surface, then replace it immediately as soon as possible because this could cause other problems later on down the road.

Examine the Wire Fuse Panel

If you find that your fuse is blown or broken, then you may want to consider replacing it with a new one. You can purchase new fuses from any auto parts store and replace them yourself or take your car to an auto repair shop and have them replace them for you.

Do you see flickering lights in the car when you turn on the headlight?

If you have noticed that your car headlights have started to flicker when you turn them on, then there is a good chance that there is a problem with your car battery. The first thing you should do is check to make sure that all of your fuses are intact and functioning properly. If they are, then you should check your battery to make sure that it is not dead or defective in any way.

Why are my car lights flickering and the car won’t start?

If your headlights are flickering out and the car won’t start, you may have got an electrical problem but there are other possible causes as well.

Check out some more of our electrical related articles!

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